Museo Reina Sofía

Home of Picasso's Guernica, which is worth the trip on its own — go early or late, it gets crowded and phones go up.

Free entry Monday and Wednesday to Saturday 19:00–21:00, and Sunday afternoon. Closed Tuesdays — this catches people out constantly.

The Sabatini building has the permanent collection; the Nouvel extension has the temporary shows and a very good bookshop. The courtyard is free to sit in.

Check the official site for current hours.